The basic dog training collar goes by many names, including choke collar, choke chain, training collar, correction collar and slip collar. These training collars are among the most popular and most commonly used tools with both amateur and professional dog trainers.

While a training collar is an effective tool, like any tool it must be used properly in order to be effective for you and safe for the dog. Among the most important considerations when using a training collar are:

How the collar fits the dog. It is essential that the training collar be properly fitted to the dog. A properly fitted training collar is easier to use and safer for the dog.
Putting the training collar on properly. There is a right way and a wrong way to fit a training collar, and putting it on wrong will make it both ineffective and potentially dangerous.
Using the collar properly. A training collar should be used as a sharp reminder to the dog, not as punishment. It is important that constant pressure be avoided when using a training collar.
The weight of the chain and the size of the links on the training collar. It is important that the weight of the chain be appropriate to the size and weight of the dog.
The placement of the collar on the dog. It is important to properly place the collar on the dog.

The importance of a properly fitted training collar
Determining if the training collar is the right size is relatively easy. The ideal size training collar should fit snugly, yet comfortably over the dog’s head. It is important that the training collar not fit too tightly, but it should not be too loose either. A training collar that is too tight will be too hard to put on and off. On the other hand, a training collar that is too loose can accidentally fall off of the dog’s head when it lowers its head.

It is also important to know that a training collar that is too long for the dog requires a great deal of finesse to use properly. A collar that is too long can still be used, but it will require more skill on the part of the handler.

Properly sizing and measure the dog for a training collar
It is best to measure the dog’s neck with a tape measure, then add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement. So if your dog has a neck 12” in diameter, you would want to buy a training collar that is 14” in length. Chain slip collars are generally sized in two inch increments.

Fitting the collar properly
When fitting a training collar, the part of the chain which is connected to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck. With this type of arrangement, the collar releases the instant the leash is loosened. Training collars work by making the collar tight and loose in a fast manner. Tightening the collar is the first part of the correction, and making it loose is the second part of the correction.

If the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, the collar can still be made tight, but it will not release back to a loose state easily. This constant pressure on the dog’s neck initiates a counter response on the part of the animal, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.

Finally, it is important to purchase a training collar that is well made and strong. Buying a high quality training collar, slip collar or choke collar is vital to the safety of yourself and your dog.

If the worst happens, and your dog’s training collar does break, it is important not to panic. Most dogs will be unaware that they have broken the collar, at least for a few minutes. In most cases, if you act as if the leash is still connected, you can probably get control of your dog back quickly.

When securing a loose dog, the best strategy is to make a quick slip lead by running the snap on the leash through its handle and then slipping it over the dog’s head. It may not be the best arrangement, but it will certainly do in a pinch.

The head collar has turned an increasingly generalized dog training tool in the past couple of years.  Two of the most well known brands of head collar on the market are the Gentle Leader and the Halti, but there are lots other brands that incorporate the simple head collar concept.

Many people find the Gentle Leader easier to fit that the Halti, and furthermore the Gentle Leader is created to fasten around the dog’s neck.  The advantage of this design is that although the dog is in some way able to wriggle out of the muzzle, it is yet wearing a collar.  This security feature is extremely important, specifically during training outside or in novel cases.  On the other hand, the Halti offers better control of the dog, and for this circumstance it is often favored when working with extremely aggressive dogs.

Dog Training with a head collar has a number of pros over training with a typical or training collar.  For one point, head collars are often easier to use for starting dog trainers than are training collars.  Head collars are additionally quite efficient at preventing dogs from pulling, or controlling and retraining dogs that tend to pull.

Head collars can additionally be quite efficient at controlling dogs in complicated situations, such as controlling a dog that wants to be with other dogs.  Most owners know of some cases in which their dogs are complicated to control, and head collars might be quite efficient at controlling these volatile cases.

Head collars might be excellent for controlling dogs that are extremely strong, or for working with a dog in an ground that contains a great lots distractions.  as an example, head collars are marvelous for when your dog is on an outing, or in an ground where there will be other dogs and other distractions.

Even although a head collar can be an excellent tool, it shouldn’t be used as a substitution for efficient dog training.  A head collar is most effective once it is used in conjunction with potent and sensible dog training techniques, such as reward training and other kinds of positive reinforcement.

Disadvantages of head collars
Even although head collars have lots advantages, they have a few distinct disadvantages further.  For one point, head collars tend to make lots dogs dependent on the equipment, and they rapidly learn the difference between their regular collar and the head collar, and adjust their routine accordingly.

In addition, a few dogs, especially those not familiar with wearing a head collar, dislike wearing it and paw at it, try to rub it off or pull excessively.  If your dog exhibits this routine, the absolute strategy is to keep it moving until it learns to accept the collar.  A good substitute is to have the dog sit by pulling up on the dog’s head.

Another disadvantage of the head collar is the reaction that lots people have to it.  lots people think that a head collar is a muzzle, and react to the dog as if it may bite.  While this is not necessarily a defect of the head collar, lots people do find it troublesome.

In conclusion, training with a head collar is much like training with a training collar or any other equipment.   While the head collar might be an crucial and helpful tool, it is crucial to use it appropriately, go after all kit instructions, and to make a combination of its use with solid training techniques.  The eventual aspiration of dog training with a head collar should be to have the dog behave further with a regular collar as it does with the specialized head collar.

Puppy training is highly important, whether you are training your first puppy or your 20th. in a proper way training and socializing a puppy is critical to making it a valued member of your family and your community.

In some ways training a puppy is easier than training an adult or adolescent dog. One factor is that the puppy is principally a “blank slate”, untroubled by past training methods and other issues. In other ways, anyhow, the puppy may be more complicated to train than an older dog, but you should start training your new puppy the right way from the beginning of training process.

One challenge to training a new puppy is that puppies are more simply distractible than adolescent and adult dogs. Everything is new to a puppy, and every new experience provides a new opportunity for distraction. For this factor, it is absolute to keep training sessions short when working with a puppy, and to end each training sessions on a positive note.

It is also vital to facilitate the puppy lots of time to play, and to interact with other puppies and dogs. Socialization training is critical to making your new puppy a good canine citizen, as dog aggression is a growing trouble in multiple areas. A in a proper way socialized dog learns how to play in a proper way with other dogs, and overly aggressive play is castigated by the other dogs in the play group.

This kind of play learning is something that occurs among siblings in litters of puppies. As the puppies play with each other, they learn what is adequate and what is not. Inappropriate routine, such as hard biting or scratching, is castigated by the other puppies, by the mother dog, or both.

Unfortunately, multiple puppies are removed from their mothers and sold or adopted before this socialization has fully happened. Therefore, puppy play sessions are a highly important part of any puppy training session. Most good puppy preschool training programs provide time in each session for this kind of dog interaction.

Introducing your puppy to new experiences and new locations is also a critical part of puppy training. Teaching your dog to be obedient and responsive, even in the face of multiple distractions, is highly important when training dogs and puppies.

One great alternative to socialize your puppy both to new people and new dogs is to take it on a trip to your local pet store. multiple major pet store chains, and a few independent ones further, facilitate pet parents to bring their furry children, and these stores can be fantastic places for puppies to get used to new sights, sounds and smells. evidently you will need to be sure the store enables pets before title over.

It is essential for puppy owners to structure their pet’s background so that the puppy is rewarded for better behaviors and not rewarded for others. One good example of this is jumping on people. multiple people accidentally reward this behavior for the reason that it may be cute. While it is true that jumping may be cute for a ten pound puppy, it will not be so cute when that puppy has grown into a 100 pound dog.

Instead of profitable the puppy for jumping, try profitable it for sitting as a substitute. This kind of positive reinforcement will result in a well behaved adult dog that is a valued member of both the family and the community at large.

This kind of reinforcement can in addition be used in potty training the new puppy. to illustrate, teaching a puppy to use a unique surface such as gravel or asphalt is a good method. The argument is that the puppy will associate this surface with going potty, and therefore be reluctant to use other surfaces (like your kitchen carpet for instance) as a potty.

The most vital aspect of Cultivating Good Behavior In Your New Puppy is to teach it how to stay clean in the house. Dogs aren’t shabby by nature – they would mostly urinate and defecate away from their sleeping and feeding ground. Puppies that have been raised in a shabby background, living in cramped quarters, can be quite cumbersome to housetrain. When you pay for a puppy ensure that the original proprietary has provided a clean background with separate feeding, sleeping and potty areas.

Puppies have a quick learning rate and they can competently grasp what you teach them. You require to instill a feeling of timing and agenda in your puppy from the day you bring it home. You can do this by feeding the puppy at the same time each day, and carrying out other tasks at special time slots. This way your puppy will grow up to be an obedient, disciplined dog.

You would not need your puppy to go inside its crate or in the house. Therefore, train it to urinate away from the crate or the house. Take it for a stroll in the lawn and voice train it, such that it adheres to your commands. effectively housetraining your puppy would take some weeks or so. It’s not at all a piece of cake, and you mustn’t reprimand your puppy if it fails to obey your command. Just place it back in the crate and then again take it for a stroll. steadily but really the puppy will discover how to get in conjunction with separate feeding, sleeping and potty areas.

It is imperative that you supervise at all times while housetraining you puppy. When no one is there to supervise it, the puppy must be confined to its crate. With time the puppy will learn to keep itself clean. Once it does so, you can try leaving him unfettered in a room of your house. If the puppy gleefully obeys your commands, doesn’t depict aggressive routine, manages to prevail clean, and doesn’t damage or soil any household stuff, you may permit him prevail in another room additionally thereby continuing the housetraining process. anyhow, if the puppy behaves in an unruly fashion, revert back to the preceding stage of housetraining.

All the while be patient while housetraining your puppy. It’s not a cake walk, and therefore, it’s unrealistic to expect immediate results.

Teaching your puppy crate training is the first and absolute step in his life. It produces all the other steps in his training go so much smoother, much such as a solid foundation produces for a superior wall. Initiating you as the Alpha member of his “pack” is one highly good circumstance for beginning your puppy in a crate when he is highly young.

Another circumstance for crate training for your Puppy is that dogs love predictability. To know what is going to happen in any given circumstance makes him glad, and more apt to be the best-behaved dog he can probably be.

A potent crate is the highly basis of good puppy training. A wire crate with a lock is the absolute kind. be sure it is large enough for him to stand up and turn around. But not so large that he can roam and wander around. A too-large crate will inhibit house breaking.

A crate that is just the right size will be perceived as his “nest”, where puppies never “go potty”. They will learn to hold it if you don’t come to a prison out of it. Never leave a puppy under 8 weeks longer than one hour in his crate. He will soil it, after stressed and undergoing as long as he can.

Put a cool pad in there with a bone. kick off with putting a tasty treat in there, he will go in and get it. Do this many times without closing the door, permit him come in and out freely for an hour or so. Praise him highly every time he goes in, make it all highly pleasant.

Then when his emphasis is on his treat, close by the door. Praise him quietly, “What a good boy, it’s ok, such a good boy!” In ten or 20 seconds, no longer, permit him out without a word, no praise, just a pat. Do this for increasingly longer intervals, but don’t give him a possibility to get disappointed. You can do this many times the first day.

Make sure every training session ends on a glad note, this is essential.

Once he sees the crate is his own private territory, he will go in there on his own, looking ahead to treats and your emphasis. When he does, mention, “Wanna crate?” with a glad face while getting his treats. kick off leaving the room while he is in there for 2 minutes and onward, progressively. When you return, don’t come to a fuss, just walk through and open the crate. In 3 days he will be officially crate-trained, prepared to be left alone for an hour, no longer at first. Leave him progressively longer, steadily and carefully.

Q. Why do I need a crate for my puppy? A. for the reason that they love it is the best circumstance. They feel very secure and safe in there. Here are a few more:
When you leave a puppy alone, he constantly has some choice of separation anxiety. This leads him to any routine that brings him comfort, which is chewing, digging, or once it is severe, voiding his bowels. When placed in a crate, he feels secure because nothing can get to him, nothing can hurt him. He will sleep and chew and wait so you can return.  When leaving him overnight at the vet, if your dog is not crate educated he will cry the entire time, feeling lost and abandoned. With crate training, he is sure you will return, you constantly do. needless to say the vet’s office is strange and will cause him a few anxiety, but nothing like the pure terror he will feel without experience in being locked in.

NOTE: About crate-training, do not come to a prison of his crate. don’t use it as punishment. don’t leave him there for more than 2 hours, just time for a long puppy nap and a few chew time. After that he will cry. don’t remove him while he is crying. This will make him think he has to cry to get out. it doesn’t matter what, be sure he is being good when you open the door. He will learn he has to be quiet to get out. Do not come to a fuss when you are permitting him out, just quietly open the door and take him out to potty. When he potties, praise him to high heaven! Dogs naturally don’t go where they nest, but from time to time it occurs. don’t scold, just clean it out with a bland face. He will learn the lesson. If doable, try to clean it while he is outside so he returns to a clean crate.

In 25 years of training dogs, I have never seen any one thing more critical  than good crate training for your Puppy.

All of us dream of parenting the perfect dog, a pup that is a canine good citizen and is well behaved and dependable at all times. Well dreams do come true if the training is done with care and dedication. Remind pups learn from day one and require to be taught what is right, what is wrong, and proper socialization.

Pups are like children, they need permanent supervision and training. Training a pup require not be an ordeal all you require to keep in mind are a few Important recommendations To Training Your Puppies:

• Until your pup learns you require to keep an eye on him at all times. When you can’t then you must crate him. originate a calendar for the pup this will help the pup settle down rapidly. The calendar must include things like hourly bath rooming visits, eating times, rest periods, walks, play time, training, and so on. A pup that has a full of activity day has no time to be bored and get into mischief.

• Teach the pup to respect you. Dogs live in packs and instinctively go after a leader. If you decide your leadership in no undecided terms then training will become simple as the pup will obey you at all times and not challenge your authority.

• Use only positive training formulas. Never shout at, hit, or penalize a dog. It is not just cruel but can conduct to behavioral complications. utilization of electric shocks, prong collars, sprays, and so on could damage the animal.

• Teach the pup “nothing in life is free.” This is a system that is widely acknowledged as a helpful training tool. If you practice this, the pup will learn that to get something like love, a walk, or treat, he must behave well.

• Teach the meaning of “No,” from day one. don’t encourage routines like jumping, mouthing, tug-o-war, barking, or running out of open gates and doors. Praise good routine and discard or walk away when there is bad routine. The pup will learn that if he misbehaves he will loose his companion/playmate.

• To correct a routine you must catch the pup in the act and startle him by rattling a can of pebbles. Once you have done this make him correct his routine and automatically offer him a treat and praise. Pups don’t recall what happened previously so scolding him after a happening is of no use.

• Always call/use his name definitely. Never tell “Bad TOM,” or “No Tom,” this will cause confusion and the pup will think that if you call his name then it is something bad. The pup must associate his name with glad events like hugs, petting, walks, treats, and such. If this occurs he will come willingly when you call out his name.

• Create a training calendar that is short and sweet say ten minutes thrice a day. Long repetitive lessons can be monotonous and the pup will loose interest in learning. Make learning fun and use trick training to teach commands like sit, down, come and so on.

• Bond with the pup and both of you will enjoy your lessons. The pup must look forward to investing time with you and not keep away from you by running away or hiding. make sure to socialize the pup early. Socialization is one of the most vital lessons. The pup must learn to be around other animals, people, sounds, cars, and other tasks. So, steadily introduce the pup when he is little to everyday tasks and sounds. Take him to the mall/ park, introduce him to children and other pets, and make him unafraid of the vacuum and garden hose.

• Learn all about crate training, leash walking, house breaking, and also food training. These are kindergarten lessons that every pup must master. Know about all the idiosyncrasies and also peculiarities of the breed this will give you rewarding insights on how to effectively train the pup.

As a pet-parent you have many measures. You could select to train the dog yourself or sign up at an specialist training school. Training a dog has lots stages: kindergarten, obedience training, doggy sports, showing and conformation, and also other aspects like therapy dogs, hearing dogs, and so on. What level you select to train relies on you and also the learning skills of your dog. As you know, different dogs like humans have transformed talents. select well and both you and your pup will have fun times together.

Training dogs using positive reinforcement and reward training has long been recognized as both highly effective for the owner and a positive experience for the dog. Positive reinforcement training is so important that it is the only method used to train dangerous animals like lions and tigers for work in circuses and in the movie and television industry.

Proponents of positive reinforcement swear by the effectiveness of their techniques, and it is true that the vast majority of dogs respond well to these training methods.

One reason that positive reinforcement training is so effective is that is uses rewards to teach the dog what is expected of it. When the dog performs the desired behavior, he is provided with a reward, most often in the form of a food treat, but it could be a scratch behind the ears, a rub under the chin or a pat on the head as well. The important thing is that the dog is rewarded consistently for doing the right thing.

Reward training has become increasingly popular in recent years, but chances are some sort of reward training between humans and dogs has been going on for hundreds if not thousands of years.

When understanding what makes reward training so effective, some knowledge of the history of humans and dogs is very helpful. The earliest dogs were probably wolf pups that were tamed and used by early humans for protection from predators, as alarm systems and later for guarding and herding livestock.

It is possible that the wolf pups that made the best companions were the most easily trained, or it is possible that these early dogs were orphaned or abandoned wolf pups. Whatever their origin, there is little doubt today that the vast variety of dogs we see today have their origin in the humble wolf.

Wolf packs, like packs of wild dogs, operate on a strict pack hierarchy. Since wolf and dog packs hunt as a group, this type of hierarchy, and the cooperation it brings, is essential to the survival of the species. Every dog in the pack knows his or her place in the pack, and except in the event of death or injury, the hierarchy, once established, rarely changes.

Every dog, therefore, is hard wired by nature to look to the pack leader for guidance. The basis of all good dog training, including reward based training, is for the handler to set him or herself up as the pack leader. The pack leader is more than just the dominant dog, or the one who tells all the subordinates what to do. More importantly, the pack leader provides leadership and protection, and his or her leadership is vital to the success and survival of the pack.

It is important for the dog to see itself as part of a pack, to recognize the human as the leader of that pack, and to respect his or her authority. Some dogs are much easier to dominate than others. If you watch a group of puppies playing for a little while, you will quickly recognize the dominant and submissive personalities.

A dog with a more submissive personality will generally be easier to train using positive reinforcement, since he or she will not want to challenge the handler for leadership. Even dominant dogs, however, respond very well to positive reinforcement. There are, in fact, few dogs that do not respond well to positive reinforcement, also known as reward training.

Positive reinforcement is also the best way to retrain a dog that has behavior problems, especially one that has been abused in the past. Getting the respect and trust of an abused dog can be very difficult, and positive reinforcement is better than any other training method at creating this important bond.

No matter what type of dog you are working with, chances are it can be helped with positive reinforcement training methods. Based training methods on respect and trust, rather than on intimidation and fear, is the best way to get the most from any dog.

Cultivating Obedience In Your Dogs. Dogs are man’s “best friend”, but like your real friends, dogs also have annoying habits that you normally despise. But because you love them, you suffer for it until you can’t take anymore. Just as we all try to talk to our human friends about their bad habits, it is also vital that we do the same for our pets. This is not impossible since dogs are proven to be intelligent animals. Experience also proves that they can pick up and understand instructions with proper training. In fact, training your human friends to ditch their bad habits is harder than training your pets.

Dogs are naturally diggers. It might be some part of their genes that make them such enthusiastic diggers. It is amusing to watch them dig and bury whatever they like. But, it is equally irritating when your pets leave unsightly clumps of dirt on your manicured lawn. Other than the cartoon tradition of burying bones, there are other reasons why your pets dig. These reasons also differ depending on their breed and age. Younger and more “macho” breeds like Great Danes or Rottweilers dig because of pent-up and excess energy. If this is the case, frequent exercise, walks, and training release these energies. Your pets are likely to be too exhausted to think of digging and your lawn efforts are not wasted. However, if your mutt is of the breeding age, the most likely reason behind its digging is a female. Your pet is probably digging to reach the next door bitch. Having your pet neutered is the only solution. However, there are cases when your pets dig because they just want to. In cases like this, your best bet is to train your dog not to dig by spraying the grass with non-toxic repellents. You can set aside a portion of the yard in which your pets can dig as much as they want. Remember to find them a spot in your backyard and not on your front lawn.

Other than lawn-digging, destructive chewing is a common problem of most pet owners. There are three reasons why mutts engage in this activity: attention, boredom, and teething. Neglecting your pets’ play time but chasing them when they got hold of your shoes are common scenarios. Scenarios like these teach them that chewing stuff is a way to frolic with you. Bored pets also have strong inclinations to be chewers. Teething is also a likely cause of chewing problems especially with younger pets. A way to stop your pets’ chewing habits is to spend time with them through playing. Provide dogs with chewable toys and play catch. They will soon understand that these chew toys are the only things they are allowed to chew.

These problems are easily prevented if you make it clear to your dogs that you expect obedience from them. There are dog training camps for unruly pets and lots of articles in the internet for personal dog training. Dogs are not problems at all if you cultivate obedience in them.

You should not wait until there are signs of bad behaviour before considering obedience training classes for your dog.  If you have obvious behavioural problems, a dog obedience school is an excellent solution, but you should start thinking about it before obedience problems develop.

Obedience problems with your dog are not always apparent.  You might sometimes overlook minor indiscretions – chewing, jumping up, excessive barking – that can be signs of a more serious problem.

By themselves, these may not be serious obedience problems for you or your dog, but it is the inability to control them that should be of concern.  Allowing certain bad behaviour can lead to frustration when trying to correct it later on, or when obedience training for other habits.  That frustration can lead to other obedience problems for your dog and a strained relationship between you and your pet.

Again, if you clearly have dog obedience problems, it would be in the best interests of both you and your pet to enroll in an obedience training class.  Even when you know a little bit about training your dog, perhaps especially then, formal dog obedience lessons will help you and your dog in many ways.

Of course, you will be able to address any particular obedience problem, but you will accomplish more.   Formal dog obedience classes will form a basis for future learning between you and your dog.  Your pet will be more confident in everything they do.  They will be happier and more eager to please than ever.  Most important, obedience training lessons will lead to a better relationship between you and your dog.

However, you need to make sure you choose the right dog obedience school.  If you receive the improper obedience training, problems could become worse.

The dog obedience training specialists at Alpha Paws will assess your dog’s obedience training needs before developing a plan specifically designed for you and your dog.  Alpha Paws uses a natural approach in their dog obedience training school that not only results in improved obedience, but it teaches your dog how to learn.

Which dog owner won’t feel proud of his disciplined dog? Reversely, who won’t feel ashamed of an unruly dog? It is very important for your dog to be absolutely obedient to commands of his owner. You can’t expect your dog to be obedient by birth or nature. You have to take pains to make him understand obey your commands.

Obedience training to your dog can be imparted in many ways – two of the more popular methods are typically carrot and stick methods. First method heavily depends on the stick or punishment approach. Second method deals with the reward system for the dog.

Leash and collar method of dog obedience training has survived for a long time now. It is primitive but still mostly followed. The premises of this training method are based here – leash will be the mode of communication with the dog. Dog must understand the commands, and if not obeyed to, leash should be put to action. Using leash alone is not sufficient – dog must be made aware of the good and bad behavior. Once tracked on the path to bad behavior, dog can be punished with the leash.

Reward system doesn’t believe in punishing the dog. It follows psychological approach to deal with dog training. Dog is made to know the good parts of behavior and rewarded for the same. His ugly behavior is neglected in the form of psychological treatment. The trainer or owner walks away from the dog immediately after the show of bad behavior. Dog is an intelligent animal to understand the difference between the bad and good behavior.

Whatever technique is used for dog obedience training, it is important to know that the training must be consistent. Dogs get easily confused due to double standards employed. If you expect your dog never to jump on the bed, never let or invite him on the bed. Ensure that your dog never reaches the bed.

Obedience training starts on the fundamental issues like sitting, standing, walking, listening to your commands & following those, sitting in the car, etc.

The dog owner can easily impart obedience training. You may find alternates to this by getting your dog enrolled with some obedience classes or dog instructor. Evaluate all the training techniques, methods, equipment, infrastructure, experience, etc before taking the final decision on outside help. Remember, the most ideal way will be yourself to be the instructor. Your dog will love it.

It is important to begin your Dog Behavior Training From An Early Age. By the time you have your dog its behavior will have already been greatly influenced by his mother and his siblings.

Here’s an example: If his mother barked to attract some attention, her puppies will probably behave in the exact same way. The experiences that occur between three and twelve weeks of age are crucial in the development of a dog’s personality.

The best time to get a puppy is when it is about eight weeks old. By making sure that it has as much varied experience as possible during the month that follows, you will lay the groundwork for easier, more productive, and rewarding training.

Meeting New People
You need to make sure that your new puppy meets as many different people as possible while it is still young. If you can, take him to work, take him out in the car, and take him to your friend’s homes whenever possible. Let the puppy play with dogs that you know are healthy, and introduce it to children and other adults.

Personal Investigation
Playing with toys will provide the puppy with mental and physical stimulation. Find out which toys the puppy likes (they often have favorites), but you need to make sure that the toys are unlike other domestic items, such as shoes. You can use his favorite toy as a reward during training.

Play Constructively
You can play active games with your puppy, but you need to make sure that it is you who is in control and ‘dominant’ in the puppies eyes. While you play, watch the puppy’s behavior, and if it is about to sit, issue the “Sit” command. This gives the puppy some early association with basic commands and what they mean.

Give Immediate Rewards
When the puppy obeys a command, you should offer an immediate reward, such as stroking or praise with words. Remember: You’re the dominant member of the pack, which means you should always be in control.

Early Habits Can Last A Life-Time
If you carry a puppy constantly when it is very young, it will expect similar treatment when it feels insecure as an adult. Bear this in mind.

Give Mental Stimulation
Puppies that are actively stimulated between the age of three and twelve weeks grow into adults that are good at both learning and problem solving. A puppy learns best by observing its mother’s behavior.

Understanding Fear
You must try to keep an eye on all of your puppy’s activities, to ensure that any frightening situations he may encounter are kept to a minimum. Fears learned at an early age can become lifelong phobias unless they are overcome with training.

Gatherings
All dogs must learn to behave properly, both with their own species and with others, especially people. This isn’t always an easy task, so the best time for them to learn is when they are still very young – less than four months old is best.

When it’s possible, make sure that the puppy meets other species such as cat’s horses when it is very young.

Here’s why: Early socialization to other species reduces the likelihood of future problems. With the advice of your vet or local dog training club, it’s a good idea to participate in supervised weekly puppy evenings. At these gatherings, puppies learn how to respond to other dogs and to strangers in a controlled way.

Social Deprivation
Dogs that lack early social experiences can sometimes become more difficult to train. Restricted contact with people when the puppy is young can cause limitations in the dog’s ability to obey commands.

Before getting a dog, find out as much as possible about its early experience. The more a puppy has been handled while young, the more likely it is to respond well to obedience training.

Puppies raised with hardly any contact with people can be very difficult to train for the average person without the help of a professional dog trainer. So remember to ask questions about the puppies experience with being handled.

Some of us might remember that old song, “How Much Is That Puppy In The Window?” Even those that don’t recollect this once popular tune can certainly relate to the experience of simply falling in love with every cute little puppy you encounter.

It doesn’t take long to figure out where the phrase “puppy dog eyes” comes from. Unfortunately our animal shelters, swollen with older relinquished pets, are a sad testimonial to the fact that too many instances of “puppy seduction” end up in a household disaster because well intending folks simply do not understand the basics of dog behavior training.

Dog behavior training should the first concern of new puppy parents. Put the crates, bedding, leashes and food aside for a moment. Your dog behavior training resources must be in order if you are to effectively transform that sweet little puppy into a functional member of your household.

Responsible breeders and pet shop owners should take the time to instill this requirement in the minds of new dog owners before you leave their facility. Too often, the excitement of a new pet and the completion of sale or adoption formalities distracts both parties from addressing dog behavior training as the highest priority of pet ownership.

On the surface one might conclude that dog behavior training is a process which benefits the new dog owner. While this is most definitely true from the perspective of owning a well disciplined, controllable pet, one ultimately comes to learn that it is the dog which benefits more from proper training than the owner. Simply put, an untrained dog quickly becomes a nuisance rather than a welcome addition to the home.

Owners unfamiliar with the basics of canine behavior and who have not pursued a path of effective dog behavior training quickly become frustrated with their newly acquired animal. This stresses the dog and seriously compromises the pet’s future potential for learning what is expected of him. The relationship of owner and pet quickly becomes a relentless downward spiral and eventually the animal ends up in a shelter.

Quality dog behavior training is the ultimate gift you can give to your dog. It ensures the dog’s experience will be positive and catalyze a long lasting, irreversible bond between your family and their new pet.

How many times have I hear fellow dog owners say, “I hate it when he barks non stop… or he utterly embarrassed me when he mounts people’s leg”. Dog owners usually have no problems to fill in tons of their dog behavioral problems into the above statements.

I have to admit that I feel disappointed, even sad whenever I hear dog owners say that statement. Why? Because, these owners have failed to see things from their dog’s prospective! To put it simply, I should say that they don’t understand their dogs at all.

Dogs do not misbehave because they’re spiteful, or are out to annoy or anger you. They just behave in a manner which is expected of a dog!

The fact is that dog behavioral problems that we can’t stand are not problems at all to the dogs. In fact, do you know that dogs “misbehave” for a reason or two? To list a few:

1. Dogs bark because they have something to say, something to tell you.

2. Dogs dig because they smell something underneath the ground.

3. Dogs chew because they are teething and are feeling uncomfortable.

4. Dogs chase after moving objects because they are following its instinct.

5. Dogs turn aggressive because they want to protect you.

For your information, most dogs actually misbehaved (in our eyes) because of the lack of care, concern and training from their very own owners:

1. Health Issue – Many behaviorists & dog trainers believe that at least 20% of all behavior problems are related to the dog’s health in some way or another. For all that you might know. Your dog could be misbehaving because he is sick or in pain. Bring him to the vet for a thorough check-up if he misbehaves suddenly when he has always been a good dog.

2. Imbalance Diet – Feeding your dog the wrong food, with too high in protein, fat or carbohydrates is known to cause hyperactivity. Sugars, starches and many other factors in your dog’s diet can also cause behavioral problems in your dog. Always read the label of the food before you feed him, seek advice if necessary. Remember that dogs need different type of food in different stages of their life.

3. Exercise – Lack of exercise also cause plentiful of problems. A dog that doesn’t get enough exercise is unhealthy and tends to be hyperactive, and display destructive behaviors. Dogs depending on breed type need plentiful of exercises – Do consider this factor before you get a puppy.

4. Lack of Leadership –I can’t stress enough on the importance of the leadership issue. Dogs display TONS of behavioral problems when they lack a leader. Aggressive & destructive behaviors, leg lifting, marking, mounting, barking & etc… It’s very important that you assume the role of the alpha leader!

You must understand that all dog develop behavior problems. These dog behavior problems never develop in a vacuum. They are always the outcome of the interaction between a dog and its environment, including you! Most canine behavioral problems can be controlled if not solved completely. You just got to put in some effort and understand that prevention is better than cure.

Lastly, do try to see and comprehend things from your dog’s prospective the next time your dog misbehaves. You’ll soon find that you love him even more!

Reward training is often seen as the most modern method of training a dog, but reward training is probably much older than other methods of dog training. It is possible that reward training for dogs has been around as long as there have been dogs to train. Early humans probably used some informal kind of reward training when taming the wolf pups that eventually evolved into modern dogs.

Many principles of modern reward training date back many decades. However, what is called reward training today has only enjoyed is remarkable popularity for the past 10 or 15 years.

Many reward training enthusiasts are less enthusiastic about other methods of dog training, such as the traditional leash and collar method. However, the best approach to training any individual dog is often a combination of leash/collar training and reward training.

In addition, a training method that works perfectly for one dog may be totally inappropriate for another, and vice versa. Some dogs respond wonderfully to reward training and not at all to leash and collar training, while others respond to leash/collar training and are not at all motivated by reward training. Most dogs fall somewhere in the middle of these two extremes.

Clicker training is one of the most popular forms of reward training these days. While clicker training is not the answer for every dog, it can be a remarkably effective method of training many dogs. In clicker training, the dog is taught to associate a clicking sound with a reward, like a treat. The trainer clicks the clicker when the dog does something good, followed immediately by a treat. Eventually, the dog learns to respond to the clicker alone.

Most reward training uses some sort of food reward, or a reward that is associated with getting food. In most cases, complex behaviors can only be taught using this kind of positive reinforcement, and you will find that the people who train dogs for movies and television use reward training almost exclusively.

Reward training is used in all forms of dog training, including police work and military applications. Most scent detection, tracking and police dogs are trained using some form of reward training. Reward training is also a very effective way to teach many basic obedience commands.

Reward training often incorporates the use of a lure in order to get the dog into the position desired by the trainer. The lure is used to get the dog to perform the desired behavior on his or her own and of his or her own free will.

It makes a great deal of sense to get the dog to perform the desired behavior without any physical intervention on the part of the handler. Getting the dog to perform a behavior without being touched is important.

After the dog has performed the desired behavior, it is given a reward, also called a positive reinforcement. Treats are often used as reinforcers, but praise, such as “good dog” or a pat on the head, can also be effective rewards.

Making a dog that has been reward trained a reliable dog is important, especially when the dog has an important job, like police work or drug detection, to do. For that reason it is important to get the dog accustomed to working around distractions, and to properly socialize the animal to both people and other animals.

Many dog trainers make the mistake of only training the dog inside the house or back yard, and only when the handler is there. In order to become a reliably trained companion, the dog must be taken outside the confines of its safety zone and introduced to novel situations.

It is also important to teach the dog to pay attention to the handler at all times. Having the attention of the dog means having control of the dog. Reward training is very effective at getting the respect and the attention of the dog when used properly.

There are many different styles of dog training, and finding the one that works best for you is important for creating a dog that is a talented, loyal and faithful member of the family. All successful methods of dog training work to reinforce the relationship between dog and handler, and the foundation of any successful training program is getting the respect of the dog. Fortunately, dogs are wired by nature to seek out leaders, and to follow the direction of those leaders.

This article focuses on one of the most popular methods of dog training – the so called leash/collar style of training. Other articles will focus on the other popular style of training dogs, often called reward training or positive reinforcement.

Both leash/collar training and reward training have been around for a very long time, and they have proven their effectiveness over time. The type of training that works best will vary from dog to dog, and from breed to breed. It is important to remember that each breed of dog has its own unique qualities, reinforced by hundreds of years of selective breeding.

Of course personalities of individual dogs vary quite a bit, even within established breeds. You, as the owner of the dog, know better than anyone which style of dog training will work best, so it is important to work with the trainer you choose to achieve your goal of a willing, obedient and friendly dog.

Leash and collar training is the best way to accomplish many types of dog training, particularly in situations where the dog must have a high level of reliability. For instance, dogs that have an important job to do, such as rescue dogs, police dogs and guard dogs, generally benefit from leash and collar training.

In leash and collar training, varying degrees of force can be used, ranging from slight prompts with the lead to very harsh corrections. The amount of correction used should be appropriate to the situation, since using too much correction, or too little, will be ineffective.

In a collar and leash based dog training program, first the dog is taught a particular behavior, generally with the leash. After the dog has demonstrated that it understands the command, the leash is then used to correct the dog if it disobeys, or when it makes a mistake.

The leash is the main form of controlling and communicating with the dog in leash and collar training.

When using leash and collar training, the dog must be trained to trust the handler and accept his or her directions without question. In order for the dog to be fully trained, the handler must demonstrate the ability to place the dog into a posture or position he or she does not want to take. This does not mean using force, but it does generally require some level of physical manipulation. This manipulation is most easily and safely done using the main tool of leash and collar training – the leash.

It is important for every would be dog trainer to understand that the leash is simply a tool. While the leash is an important tool in this form of training, it is important for the dog trainer to be able to eventually achieve the same results using whatever tools are at hand.

Even when the only tools at hand are the owner’s body and skill, the dog should be willing to obey. Creating a leader/follower relationship between handler and dog is still very important, and it is important to use the leash as a tool and not a crutch. A properly trained dog should be willing to obey whether the leash is present or not.

Our dogs are pack animals. They’re highly sociable creatures with a genuine need to socialize and interact. Because we humans have done such a bang-up job in domesticating our canine friends, socialization with other dogs isn’t enough for your friend: you are the center of your dog’s world. She needs to spend time with you. Of course, this is sometimes easier said than done.

Life, for most of us, is pretty busy, and at times it’s difficult to find genuine pleasure in performing the most basic of caretaking tasks for our dogs. When time is short, responsibility becomes a burden. It’s even worse when added responsibilities or increased demands on our time begin to detract from the quality of the time we do spend with our dogs. If other stresses are weighing heavily on your mind, everyday pleasures with your dog can morph from a joy into a headache – the half-hour walk after work is just one more thing to get through, rather than an opportunity for you both to unwind and spend some time together in mutual, tacit admiration of the natural world. Whether we like it or not, the lifestyles that we choose (to a certain extent, anyway) to put ourselves through – a general dearth of time, moderate to high stress levels, job anxiety, shifting personal commitments – affect our dogs as well as ourselves. Sensitive pooches can become so negatively impacted by the less-than-positive frame of mind held by their owners that they themselves become depressed and anxious. Other, more well-adjusted dogs suffer through isolation: when obligations are pressing, the twice-daily dog walk can be the easiest thing to relegate to the back of the line (your dog can hardly raise his voice in outrage, can he?).

Making time for our dogs isn’t always as easy as we would like it to be. But it doesn’t have to require a huge input of time or a Herculean amount of energy: there are ways that we can include our dogs in our lives without spending minutes and hours that we don’t have.

Here are a few suggestions:

1. Bring her along with you. When you’re running errands – picking up the mail, dropping children off to music lessons, soccer, and Little League, stopping by at work – your dog will jump at the chance to come along. Even if she stays in the car, the opportunity to get out of the house and enjoy a change of visual and olfactory scenery will be genuinely welcomed by her – and it’s a good way for the two of you to spend some casual one-on-one time together. If your errands involve other people (ferrying kids around, picking up a spouse, visiting a friend), accompanying you can go a long way towards meeting her social requirements for the day, too. (Tip: if you’re going for the Big Grocery Shop, or plan on doing something else that requires an extended absence from the car, best to leave her at home – any more than half an hour alone in the car is pushing the boundaries of responsible ownership for most dogs.)

2. Invite her into the bedroom. You don’t have to ask her up on the bed with you; she can sleep on her own dog bed, either in the corner of the room (most dogs prefer to sleep with something at their backs) or next to your bed. This is a fantastic way of spending “down-time” with your dog (you’re both enjoying the same pastime in an undemanding way), and of increasing your bond, too. Dogs like to sleep with their pack (that’s you!). As pack animals, they’re hardwired to enjoy close contact with others during their most vulnerable hours. It reinforces their sense of togetherness and security. By allowing your dog into your bedroom at night, you’re fostering closeness with your friend. And it’s easy, too!

3. Spend time in mutually-enjoyable activities. Walking the dog becomes a chore when it’s boring – if you’re enjoying yourself, you’ll be more likely to devote more time to it, which is good news for your dog, yourself, and your relationship with each other. Don’t feel like you have to limit yourself to the same old twenty-minute circuit round the park – break out and explore new territory. As much as dogs love to reinvestigate familiar turf, they appreciate new sights and sounds too, so try the riverbank, the dog beach, a different park, dog exercise yards (you get to chat with other owners, too, while your dog makes new friends), hill trails, or go for a walk downtown – with your friend on a leash, of course.

4. Perfect the art of multi-tasking. Whenever I’m cooking dinner or reading a book, my Rottweiler plumps himself down about two feet away from my ankles and stares at me dolefully from under wrinkled, upslanted brows. This used to bother me: I could almost sense the waves of silent accusation wafting off him. “Why aren’t you playing with me?” I felt like he was asking. “How come whatever that is gets your attention when I don’t?” As much as I love him, I still feel that I’m entitled to my one or two chapters a night (and a well-cooked dinner); so I decided to counteract the tear-jerking expression on his face by learning to multi-task. So now, cooking time is also training time: I use the momentary hiatus in between stirrings and choppings to practice Sit and Down. Reading time has become read-and-cuddle time: we sprawl on the couch together, I get to relax and read my book, and he gets his tummy rubbed while he snoozes. If I had a TV, I’d use my TV-watching time for grooming time, too.

5. Counteract the “one-man dog” tendency. If you live in a multi-person household, it makes things easier on you if you can share the responsibility around a bit. It’s healthier for your dog, too – the more she interacts with the people that she lives with, the better. You can share responsibilities like walking, playtime, feeding, and grooming: the more social stimulation your dog gets, the happier she’ll be. If you have children in the household, the amount of responsibility they get is really best decided on a case-by-case basis: some younger children are perfectly OK to walk the dog, but some can find the experience traumatic and scary (which makes it unsafe for the dog, too). As a general rule of thumb, before allowing a child out of doors and unsupervised with a dog, make sure you’re OK with how the dog and the child interact. The dog should obviously know that the child “ranks” above her in the social hierarchy of the household, and obey her commands reliably; the child should be able to handle herself confidently with the dog, and know the basic rules of dog-walking etiquette (leash-laws, poop-scooping, dog-on-dog social protocol, and so on). Obviously, these tips aren’t intended as a substitute for that quality and quantity of time together that your dog lives for – and that makes life as a dog-owner so rewarding and fun, too. Your dog still needs to spend active, focused time with you, in training, playtime, general cuddling/manhandling, and exercise. But with a little forethought and effort, you can go a long way towards ensuring her emotional and psychological welfare without adding too much to your own workload.

For more information on responsible dog ownership, including detailed advice for handling and preventing problem behaviors, step-by-step how-to’s for obedience work and tricks, and an in-depth look at canine psychology and communication, check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s the ultimate resource for dog owners! Visit the site by clicking on the link below: Click here.

Separation anxiety is one of the most common problems that dogs develop. It’s an anxiety disorder, and is defined as a state of intense panic brought on by the dog’s isolation/separation from her owner. In other words: when you leave for work in the morning, your dog is plunged into a state of nervous anxiety which intensifies extremely quickly. Dogs are social animals – they need plenty of company and social interaction to keep them happy and content. No dog likes to be left alone for long stretches of time, but some dogs do a lot worse than others: these are the ones most prone to separation anxiety.

There are a number of contributing causes to the condition:

- Some breeds are genetically predisposed towards anxiety and insecurity, which is something you should consider when deciding which breed you’re going to go for (particularly if you’re going to be absent for long stretches of time). A few of these breeds include Weimaraners, Springer Spaniels, German Shepherds, and Airedales

- A significant proportion of dogs from shelters develop separation anxiety. Most of these ‘shelter dogs’ have undergone significant trauma in their lives – they’ve been abandoned by their previous owners – and thus they have little trust that their new-found owner (you) isn’t going to pull the same trick.

- Dogs that were separated from their mothers and siblings too early have been identified as being especially prone to separation anxiety. Puppies from pet-stores are a perfect example of this: they’re usually taken from their mothers well before the earliest possible age (which is 8 weeks), and confined to a small glass box in the petstore for anywhere between a few weeks to two months. This early weaning, coupled with the lack of exercise and affection while in the petstore, is psychologically traumatic for the dog. – Neglect is the number-one cause of sepration anxiety for dogs. If you’re absent much more than you’re present in your dog’s life, separation anxiety is pretty much inevitable. Your dog needs your company, affection, and attention in order to be happy and content.

The symptoms of separation anxiety are pretty distinctive: your dog will usually learn to tell when you’re about to leave (she’ll hear keys jingling, will see you putting on your outdoor clothes, etc) and will become anxious. She may follow you from room to room, whining, trembling, and crying. Some dogs even become aggressive, in an attempt to stop their owners from leaving. When you’ve left, the anxious behavior will rapidly worsen and usually will peak within half an hour. She may bark incessantly, scratch and dig at windows and doors (an attempt to escape from confinement and reunite herself with you), chew inappropriate items, even urinate and defecate inside the house. In extreme cases, she might self-mutilate by licking or chewing her skin until it’s raw, or pulling out fur; or will engage in obsessive-compulsive behaviors, like spinning and tail-chasing. Upon your return, she’ll be excessively excited, and will leap around you in a frenzy of delight for a protracted period of time (more than the 30 seconds to one minute of a happy, well-balanced dog.) This extended greeting is a source of some misunderstanding: without realizing that such a greeting actually signifies the presence of a psychological disorder, some owners actually encourage their dog to get more and more worked up upon their return (by fuelling the dog’s excitement, encouraging her to leap around, paying her protracted attention, and so on.) If you’re behaving in this way with your dog, please stop. I know it’s tempting and very easy to do, and it seems harmless – after all, she’s so happy to see you, what harm can it do to return her attention and affection in equal measure? – but in actuality, you’re just validating her belief that your return is the high point of the day. So she’s as happy as Larry when you return – but, when it’s time for you to leave again, her now-exaggerated happiness at your presence is under threat, and she gets even more unhappy when you walk out that door.

Fortunately, there are things you can do to minimize your dog’s tendency towards anxiety. Here’s a short list of do’s and don’ts: Do:

- Exercise the heck out of her. Really wear her out: the longer you expect to be away, the more exercise she should get before you leave. For example, if you’re leaving for work in the morning, she’ll probably be by herself for at least four hours; and, if you’ve got a dog-walker to take her out mid-day instead of coming back yourself, she won’t see you – the person she really cares about – for at least nine hours. So she needs a good, vigorous walk (fifteen to twenty minutes is the absolute minimum here!) before you walk out that door. More is even better.

- Distract her from her boredom, loneliness, and anxiety by giving her an attractive alternative to pining, pacing, and whining. All dogs love to chew – why not play on this predisposition? Get a couple of marrowbones from the butcher, bake them in the oven for 20 minutes (so they go nice and hard and crunchy – and so she can’t smear marrow all over your furniture), slice them up into chunks of a few inches long, and give her one about 15 minutes before you leave. It’ll keep her happy and occupied, and will act as a smokescreen for your departure.

- When you leave, put the radio on to a soothing station: classical music is ideal, but any station featuring lots of talk shows is also ideal. Keep the volume quite low, and it’ll calm her down a bit and give her the feeling that she’s got company.

- If at all possible, supply her with a view: if she can see the world going by, that’s the next best thing to being out and about in it. – Acclimatize her to your leaving. Taking things nice and slowly, practice getting ready to go: jingle your keys about, put on your coat, and open the door. Then – without leaving! – sit back down and don’t go anywhere. Do this until she’s not reacting any more. When there’s no reaction, give her a treat and lavish praise for being so brave. Next, practice actually walking out the door (and returning immediately), again doing this until there’s no reaction. Gradually work up – gradually being the operative word here! – until you’re able to leave the house with no signs of stress from her. Do not:

- Act overtly sympathetic when she’s crying. Although it sounds very cold-hearted, trying to soothe and comfort your dog by patting her and cooing over her is actually one of the worst things you can do: it’s essentially validating her concern. Make sure she can’t tell that you feel sorry for her: don’t ever say, “It’s OK, good girl” when she’s upset!

If you’re interested in getting a more detailed look at how to deal with your dog’s separation anxiety, you might like to check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a great learning tool for anyone who wants to learn how to deal constructively with their dog’s problem behaviors. All of the common behavioral problems are dealt with in detail, and there’s a great section on obedience commands and tricks too. You can visit the Secrets to Dog Training site by clicking on the link below: Click here.

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct! But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs.

There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently. – Different aggression types – There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are: – Aggression towards strangers – Aggression towards family members You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right? Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment. -

Aggression towards strangers – What is it? It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s very still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.) Why does it happen? There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation? What can I do about it? The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is.

Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals. How does socialization prevent stranger aggression? When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary. It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to ‘Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK’ – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppy hood for the lesson to sink in. The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers – he’ll be in general. How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers? Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen. First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!). In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on. Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves. This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand). Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments. Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually. -

Aggression towards family members – There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family: – He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you). This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself. – He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family. What’s resource guarding? Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you ‘the eye’ (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him. All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys. Why does it happen? It all boils down to the issue of dominance.

Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or ‘dominance’) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc). To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well. This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively. Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!) Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a ‘dominant’ dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources. To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say. So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say. You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in ‘time-out’, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.
If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer. – Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively – Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day). Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled? All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate ‘I’m the boss’ gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them. Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits. When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers. Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles. Can I ‘retrain’ him to enjoy being handled and groomed? In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept. Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat. For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm. The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats. Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop. Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals. Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!) For more information on handling aggressive and dominant behaviors, as well as a great deal of detailed information on a host of other common dog behavior problems, check out SitStayFetch. It’s a complete owner’s guide to owning, rearing, and training your dog, and it deals with all aspects of dog ownership. To get the inside word on preventing and dealing with problem behaviors like aggression and dominance in your dog, SitStayFetch is well worth a look. You can visit the SitStayFetch site by clicking on the link below: Click here.

Some owners seem to want their dogs to stop barking, period: a good dog is a quiet dog, and the only time that barking’s permitted is when there’s a man in a black balaclava and stripy prison outfit, clutching a haversack marked ‘Swag’, clambering in through your bedroom window. Dogs don’t see barking in quite the same light. Your dog has a voice, just like you do, and she uses it just how you do too: to communicate something to the people she cares about.

I don’t think that barking is necessarily a bad thing – in fact, I think it’s encouraging that my dog wants to “talk” to me, enough so that I can overlook the stentorian qualities of his voice (which, in enclosed spaces, is positively overpowering) in favor of his desire to communicate with me. It’s the thought that counts (even though I feel better-equipped to stand by this sanctimonious belief when my ears are sheltered safely behind industrial-quality ear-plugs). Unfortunately, the language barrier between dogs and humans is pretty well impermeable, which means it’s up to us to use the context, the body language of our dogs, and the circumstances of the vocalization to parse meaning from a volley of barks.

So why do dogs bark? It’s not easy to say (it’s like trying to answer the question, “Why do humans talk?” in so many words). Let’s start off by saying that dogs bark for many different reasons. A lot of it depends on the breed: some dogs were bred to bark only when a threat is perceived (this is true of guarding breeds in particular, like Rottweilers, Dobermans, and German Shepherds); some were bred to use their voices as a tool of sorts, to assist their owners in pursuit of a common goal (sporting breeds such as Beagles and Bloodhounds, trained to ‘bay’ when they scent the quarry), and some dogs just like to hear themselves talk (take just about any of the toy breeds as an example of a readily-articulate dog!). However, all breed specificities cast aside, there are some circumstances where just about any dog will give voice:

• She’s bored

• She’s lonely

• She’s hungry, or knows it’s time for a meal

• Something is wrong/someone is near the house

• She’s inviting you to play

• She sees another animal

• She needs the toilet.

If your dog is barking for any of these reasons, it’s not really realistic for you to try to stop her: after all, she’s a dog, and it’s the nature of all dogs to bark at certain times and in certain situations. Presumably you were aware of this when you adopted your friend (and, if total silence was high on your list of priorities, you’d have bought a pet rock, right?). Of course, there are times when barking isn’t only unwarranted, it’s downright undesirable. Some dogs can use their voices as a means of manipulation. Take this situation as an example: You’re lying on the couch reading a book. Your dog awakes from a nap and decides it’s time for a game. She picks up her ball, comes over, and drops it in your lap. You ignore her and keep on reading. After a second of puzzled silence, she nudges your hand with her nose and barks once, loudly. You look over at her – she assumes the ‘play-bow’ position (elbows near the floor, bottom in the air, tail waving) and pants enticingly at you. You return to your book. She barks again, loudly – and, when no response is elicited, barks again. And this time, she keeps it up. After a minute or so of this, sighing, you put down your book (peace and quiet is evidently not going to be a component of your evening, after all), pick up the ball, and take her outside for a game of fetch. She stops barking immediately.

I’m sure you know that respect is an essential part of your relationship with your dog. You respect her, which you demonstrate by taking good care of her regardless of the convenience of doing so, feeding her nutritious and tasty food, and showing your affection for her in ways that she understands and enjoys. In order for her to be worthy of your respect, she has to respect you, too. Something that many kind-hearted souls struggle to come to terms with is that dog ownership is not about equality: it’s about you being the boss, and her being the pet. Dogs are not children; they are most comfortable and best-behaved when they know that you are in charge. A dog has to respect your leadership to be a happy, well-adjusted, and well-behaved pet. In the situation above, there was no respect being shown by the dog. She wasn’t inviting her owner to play; she was harassing her owner to play. In fact, I’d even say bullying. And even worse, the behavior was being reinforced by the owner’s capitulation – effectively, giving in to this behavior taught her that to get what she wants, she has to make a noise – and she has to keep it up until her goal is achieved. Affection and play-times are obviously necessary aspects of life with a dog, but they have to be doled out on your own terms. If she learns that she can get what she wants by barking, then your house is going to become a Noise Pollution Zone (and this is not going to endear you to your neighbors, either). To prevent this bullying behavior in your dog from assuming a familiar role in her repertoire of communications, you have to prove to her that you’re not the kind of person that can be manipulated so easily. It’s simple to do this: all you have to do is ignore her. I’m not talking about passive ignorance, where you pay her no attention and simply continue with whatever it was you were doing – you need to take more of an active role. This means conveying to her through your body language that she is not worthy of your attention when she acts in such an undesirable manner. The absolute best and most effective thing for you to do in this case is to give her the cold shoulder. When she starts trying to ‘bark you’ into doing something for her, turn your back on her straight away. Get up, avert your eyes and face, and turn around so your back is towards her. Don’t look at her, and don’t talk to her – not even a “no”. She’ll probably be confused by this, and will likely bark harder. This is particularly true if you’ve given in to her bully-barking in the past – the more times you’ve reinforced the behavior, the more persistent she’s going to be. In fact, the barking will almost certainly get a lot worse before it gets better – after all, it’s worked for her the past, so it’s understandable that she’ll expect it to work again. As in all aspects of dog training, consistency is very important.

You must ensure that you don’t change your mind halfway through and give in to what she wants – because by doing so, you’re teaching her to be really, really persistent (“OK, so I just need to bark for ten minutes instead of five to get a walk,” is the message she’ll get). But what can you do in other situations where bullying isn’t an issue and you just want her to stop the racket? If you want to get the message across that you’d like her to cease fire and be quiet, the most effective thing you can do is to use your hands. No, I’m not talking about hitting her: this is a perfectly humane, impact- and pain-free method of conveying that what you require right now is peace and quiet. Here’s what you do: when she’s barking, give her a second to ‘get it out of her system’ (it’s a lot kinder, and a lot more effective, to give her a chance – however brief – to express herself before asking her to be quiet). If she doesn’t calm down under her own steam, reach out and clasp her muzzle gently, but firmly, in your hand. She’ll try to shake you off, or back away, so you can place your other hand on her collar to give you greater control. This method is useful for two reasons: firstly, it effectively silences the barking (since no dog, no matter how loud, can bark with her mouth shut!). Secondly, it reinforces your authority: you’re showing her through direct physical action that you’re a benevolent but firm leader who will brook no nonsense, and who won’t balk when it comes to enforcing your guidance. Hold onto her muzzle and collar until she’s stopped trying to break free: only when she calms down and stops wriggling does it mean that she’s accepted your authority. When she’s still, hold on for one or two more seconds, then let her go and praise her. In addition to this short-term fix, there are also a few things you can to do to reduce your dog’s need to bark in the first place.

The number-one cause for unwanted barking (as in, the kind of barking that’s repetitive and is directed at nothing) is nervous, agitated energy – the kind she gets from not getting enough exercise. Most dogs function best with one and a half hours’ exercise every day, which is a considerable time commitment for you. Of course, this varies from dog to dog, depending on factors like breed, age, and general level of health. You may think that your dog is getting as much exercise as she needs, or at least as much as you can possibly afford to give her – but if her barking is coupled with an agitated demeanor (fidgeting, perhaps acting more aggressively than you’d expect or want, restlessness, destructive behavior) then she almost definitely needs more. Fortunately, the fix for this problem is pretty simple: you’ll just have to exercise her more. Try getting up a half-hour earlier in the morning – it’ll make a big difference. If this is absolutely impossible, consider hiring someone to walk her in the mornings and/or evenings. And if this is impossible too, then you’ll just have to resign yourself to having a loud, frustrated, and agitated dog (although whether you can resign her to this state remains to be seen).

The second most common cause of excessive vocalization in dogs is too much ‘alone time’. Dogs are social animals: they need lots of attention, lots of interaction, and lots of communication. Without these things, they become anxious and on edge. If you’re at home with your dog, you’re not paying attention to her, and she’s spending a lot of time barking at what appears to be nothing, she’s probably bored and lonely and would benefit from a healthy dose of affection and attention. Recommended reading If you’d like more information on unwanted behaviors that your dog’s exhibiting, you’ll probably be interested in taking a look at Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a complete, A-Z manual for the responsible dog owner, and deals with recognizing, preventing, and dealing with just about every problem dog behavior under the sun. You can check out Secrets to Dog Training by clicking on the link below: Click here.

There are two extremes of opinion when it comes to dogs and their digging habits: one, that a dog is a dog, and we should permit him to express his true canine nature by allowing him free reign over the yard and flowerbeds; and two, that a flowerbed is a flowerbed, and no dog should even think about expression his dogginess if such an expression comes at the price of a season’s worth of rosebuds. My own viewpoint tends to favor the middle ground. Although plenty of dogs do love to dig, and it’s healthy for them to be permitted to indulge in this habit from time to time, there’s a difference between permitting your dog to express his inner puppy, and allowing him to run rampant in the yard. I don’t see why a dog should have to come at the price of a garden, and vice versa: flowers and dogs can coexist peacefully. If your dog’s developed a taste for digging, it’ll just take a bit of time (and some crafty ingenuity) on your part to resolve the issue satisfactorily. First of all, if you have yet to adopt a dog and your concern for the fate of your flower-beds is purely hypothetical, consider the breed of dog that you’d like. If you’ve got your eye on a specific mixed-breed dog, what seems to be the most prominent? The reason that I ask is simply because breed often plays a significant role in any given dog’s personal valuation of digging as a rewarding pastime – terriers and Nordic breeds in particular (Huskies, Malamutes, some members of the Spitz family) seem to particularly enjoy digging. Of course, when you get right down to the sum and substance, each dog is first and foremost an individual, and there’s no guaranteed way to predict whether or not your chosen familial addition is going to be a burrower or not. But if you’re trying to reduce the likelihood of an involuntarily-landscaped garden as much as possible, I suggest you stay away from all breeds of terrier (the name means ‘go to earth’, after all!) and the Nordic breeds. Why do dogs dig? In no particular order, here are some of the more common reasons that a dog will dig:

• Lack of exercise. Digging is a good way for a hyped-up, under-exercised dog to burn off some of that nervous energy.

• Boredom. Bored dogs need a ‘job’ to do, something rewarding and interesting, to help the time pass by.

• Digging is often the ideal solution for a bored dog: it gives him a sense of purpose, and distracts him from an otherwise-empty day.

• The need for broader horizons. Some dogs are just escape artists by nature – no matter how much exercise and attention they get, it’s nearly impossible to confine them. For a four-legged Houdini, it’s not the digging in itself that’s the reward, it’s the glorious unknown that exists beyond the fenceline.

• Separation anxiety. To a dog that’s seriously pining for your company, digging under those confining walls represents the most direct path to you. Separation anxiety is an unpleasant psychological issue relatively common among dogs – but because it’s so complex, we won’t be dealing with it in this article. Instead, you can find excellent resources for both preventing and coping with the condition at  http://www.kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/

Curbing the habit Many of the reasons contributing to your dog’s desire to dig suggest their own solutions: if your dog’s not getting enough exercise (generally speaking, at least forty-five minutes’ worth of vigorous walking per day), take him for more walks. If he’s bored, give him some toys and chews to play with during your absence, and wear him out before you leave so he spends most of the day snoozing. An escape-artist dog might need to be crated, or at least kept inside the house where he’s less likely to be able to break free.

For those dogs who just like to dig as a pastime in itself, though, here are a few basic tips for controlling inappropriate digging as much as is reasonably possible:

• Restrict your dog’s access. This is the most effective thing you can do: if he’s never in the yard without active supervision, there’s no opportunity for digging.

• Use natural deterrent. 99.9% of dogs will shy back, horrified, from the prospect of digging anywhere that there’s dog poop. Even the ones who like to eat poop (a condition known as coprophagia) generally won’t dig anywhere near it – it offends their basic, fastidious dislike of soiling their coat and paws.

• Use nature’s own wiles. If the digging is bothering you because it’s upsetting the more delicate blooms in your garden, plant hardier blossoms: preferably, those with deep roots and thorny defenses. Roses are ideal.

• A more time-consuming, but super-effective way of handling the issue: roll up the first inch or two of turf in your yard, and lay down chicken-wire underneath it. Your dog won’t know it’s there until he’s had a few tries at digging, but once he’s convinced himself that it’s pointless (which won’t take long), he’ll never dig in that yard again. Accept your dog’s need for an outlet: give him a place to dig If your dog is set on tunneling your yard into a grassless, crater-studded lunar landscape, but you’re equally determined to prevent this from happening at all costs, please take a moment to consider before embarking on a grueling and time-consuming preventative strategy.

Setting yourself the goal of eradicating all digging behavior, period, is pretty unrealistic: it’s not fair on you (since, really, you’re setting yourself up for failure), and it’s not really fair on your poor dog either – if he’s a true-blue digger, it’s just part of his personality, and he needs at least some opportunity to express that. But a lawn and a dog don’t have to be mutually exclusive: the most humane and understanding thing for you to do in this case is simply to redirect his digging energy. You do this by allocating him an area where he’s allowed to dig as much as he pleases. Once this zone’s been established, you can make it crystal-clear that there’s to be absolutely no digging in the rest of the yard – and you can enforce your rules with a clear conscience, since you know your dog now has his own little corner of the world to turn upside down and inside out as he chooses. But what if you don’t have a “spare corner” of the yard? What if the whole thing, grass, flowerbeds, and gravel path, is just too dear to your heart? That’s OK too – invest in a sandbox, which you can place anywhere in the garden. You can even make one yourself (the deeper, the better, obviously). Fill it with a mixture of sand and earth, and put some leaves or grass on top if you like – get your dog interested in it by having a scratch around yourself, until he gets the idea. Make sure the boundaries are clear To make it clear to him that the sandbox is OK but that everywhere else is a no-dig zone, spend a little time supervising him. When he starts to dig in the box (you can encourage this by shallowly burying a few choice marrowbones in there), praise him energetically – and if he starts digging anywhere else, correct him straight away with an ‘Ah-ah-aaaah!’ or ‘No!’. Then, redirect him immediately to the sandbox, and dole out vociferous praise when digging recommences. To really clarify the lesson, give him a treat when digging gets underway in the sandbox – the close proximity between the correction (for digging out of the sandbox) and praise/reward (for digging in the sandbox) will ensure that your point strikes home. Further reading For more information on recognizing and dealing with problematic behaviors like digging, chewing, barking, and aggression, check out Secrets to Dog Training. It’s a detailed how-to manual for the responsible owner, and is packed with all the information you’ll need for raising a healthy, happy, well-adjusted pooch: from problem behaviors to dog psychology to obedience work, Secrets to Dog Training has it covered. You can check out Secrets to Dog Training by clicking on the link below: Click here.